Pushes Fashion Far Into the Future
Sara K Egan
At Berlin’s fashion week in late January, Marina Hoermanseder made waves with her envelope-pushing pieces like a 3D printed vest top and lacquer dresses, and those highlighting one of her most signature looks – utilizing multiple belt loops at once – while firmly securing her place as perhaps the city’s most sought-after new designer. We were left in awe of not just these very unique garments that she’s quickly making a name of herself for, but equally so of her smooth way of bringing together two rather opposite components into one stunning work of art, even better in their combined splendour than they were on their own.
She can seemingly make anything out of belts and buckles, but her favorites in this regard are skirts and handbags, which become an optical illusion asking where one belt begins and another ends. When used alongside overstated rivets and zippers, sharp lines and more industrial fabrics, these works are able to effortlessly represent a grittier look, perfectly at home on the streets of Berlin, and something more prevalent in Hoermanseder’s past shows.
Taking industrial to a whole different level, the reach of 3D printing into the fashion world is being tested worldwide by intrigued designers eager to experiment. Ms. Hoermanseder has proven successful with her crafty creations, which fit the futuristic and overtly shapely bill perfectly. Her storybook bell skirts that look unreal in their bubbly shape, to space age gleams on perfectly-moulded dresses – appearing like they’ve been poured right onto the models themselves – send us on a rocket ship to far-off planets. The edgy metal details from before are still present with this theme too, yet interestingly, these mind-boggling yet versatile masterpieces also manage to mesh with a surprising softer side of her taste just as well.
Flowery details, including thousands of leather flowers blooming all over her latest collection, along with soft pastels and pops of pale lime green, seem to give ode to her original hometown of Vienna, and all of its ornamented opulence. Frilly, feminine details can be found in abundance throughout her presentation, and the flowy skirts, gentle blouses, and comfortable cloth could fit right in at any work or leisure function.
Put together these conflicting aspects of the clothing, and we’re left with almost a tease to the eye. Out of this world shapes of the next century, infused with small, delicate touches of the last, and we’re left somewhere in the middle, both mesmerized and thoroughly impressed. Perhaps that is what makes Ms. Hoermanseder such a special budding talent – her fine ability to showcase and harmoniously blend two realms at once, whether that be two eras, two cities, or two very opposing takes on style. And neither side suffers in the least in compromising to the other. Instead, they each flourish, much like the carefully created flowers and endless belt trails that are so much of her liking. We eagerly await what curious combinations she will come up with next.